Have you ever asked yourself what the main reason for choosing a specific watch among the countless options available when buying a new one is? Did you buy it simply because you liked it, or perhaps because others consider it a "good" watch? Was the price the deciding factor? Did you carefully analyze comparable models and brands? Why did you choose a particular model?
I don’t have a single definitive answer for myself. One crucial criterion is that I must genuinely like the watch, where an added bonus is, if the watch is somewhat different or unusual. Only after that I assess also whether the watch is worth the price based on its technical specifications.
Why am I writing about this? Because this time, I bought a watch that took me back to my younger years—to the 1980s, when I first became interested in watches, growing up in an environment where UMF Ruhla watches from East Germany were everywhere. Just seeing the "UMF Ruhla" inscription on the dial was almost enough to seal the deal. And since the watch is also unique due to its size and reasonably priced for its quality, the decision was made. But I will talk about that later.
Before I continue, let me briefly summarize the history of Ruhla. Its story up until 1991 is fairly well-documented. It all began in 1862, with the founding of Gebrüder Thiel GmbH in the town of Ruhla. By 1892, the company had shifted its focus to mass production of simple and affordable pocket watches, having started their development in the 1880s. By 1897, the company was already producing nearly 1.5 million watches annually!
In 1908, Ruhla introduced its first wristwatch, and by the onset of World War II, wristwatches accounted for 45% of their total production.
After the war and the division of Germany, Ruhla became part of East Germany (DDR). Until 1952, the company operated under the control of the Soviet conglomerate "Avtovelo", and most of its production equipment was relocated to the Soviet Union. In 1952, the company was returned to German's people ownership and renamed to Uhren und Maschinenfabrik Ruhla—or UMF Ruhla for short. This marks the official start of UMF Ruhla as a brand.
By 1991, when East and West Germany reunited, Ruhla had become one of the world’s leading watch manufacturers, employing well over 8,000 workers. At least in my region Ruhla watches were considered to be a cheap and relatively poor quality watches, but with some interesting models.
The transition from a planned economy to a market economy led to the company’s collapse. What began as a temporary closure turned to a permanent one, and most of the factory buildings were demolished, leaving only one standing (built in 1929 in Bauhaus style). This is a fate shared by many Eastern European watch brands, such as Poljot in Russia and Prim in the Czech Republic. As with these brands, Ruhla’s decline eventually led to a resurgence of various successor companies, each trying to build legitimacy based on the legacy of the original DDR-era Ruhla.
The first of these successor brands was established in 1991, when two former employees bought part of the production and continued making watches under the Garde Ruhla brand, with the company officially named UMR (Uhrenmanufaktur Ruhla – umr-ruhla.de). However, I found at least four other brands currently claiming the Ruhla name online:
- Ruhla since 1862 (ruhla-watch.com)
- TUW Ruhla (tuw-ruhla.com)
- Ruhla 1929 (part of the PointTec group, which also includes Zeppelin, Iron Annie, and Bauhaus) – ruhla-uhr.de
- UMF Ruhla (umf-ruhla.de)
The watch which is today in front of you, comes from the latest one, so UMF Ruhla.
To complicate a bit more, it seems to me that UMR (Garde) and UMF Ruhla are now in fact the same company. They both are in the same address and old umr-ruhla.de web page does not exist anymore.
Further more, when sending an email to UMF Ruhla, I received an email from the PointTec group and in that email both UMF Ruhla and Ruhla 1929 brands are part of the same group (so some kind of borthers). So even though Ruhla 1929 reveals on their web site that they are part of the PointTec group while UMF Ruhla does not, they are in fact both in the same position.
Enough about the history and the company, let's move to watches.
From the various watch collections of original Ruhla, two models are particularly historically interesting to the general public (though collectors and enthusiasts consider many more). Most Ruhla successors have focused on reissuing these two watches:
1. The Ruhla Space Watch
This was the watch worn by Sigmund Jähn, the first German astronaut, who flew into space in 1978 with a Soviet crew. Each of his Russian crewmates also received a Ruhla watch.
As a fun fact, the first West German watch in space was worn by Dr. Reinhart Alfred Furrer in 1985. He took a Sinn 140/42 with him, which for a long time was believed to be the first automatic watch in space.
2. The NVA Kampfschwimmer
The second historically important Ruhla watch, which has been widely reissued, was a dive watch made for the East German military (NVA Kampfscwimmer). This watch was introduced at the very end of Ruhla’s existence, in the late 1980s.
As the watch, which is today in focus falls into the cathegory "NVA Kampfschwimmer reissue", let me give you also some basic information about the original watch, that I was able to find on the internet. Although the appearance and name suggest otherwise, this was no "real" dive watch, as most dive watches are intended. It is only rated 60m by Ruhla, but it was really used in action by the former DDR (East-Germany) special forces. To be specific - the Spezialeinheit NVA Kampfschimmerkommando-18, a division of which is little known. They never dove below 40 meters, so the 60M rating was not really a problem. It was a quartz watch, photo is taken from the Ruhla museum. I was able to find some additional information about the production:
1986 -1st Original for Combat divers (100 pieces)
1987 - 2nd Original für Navy divers (500 pieces)
1988 - 3rd Original (100 pieces)
1989 - production stopped
1991 - 1st post-production (300 pieces with 1989 casings)
1992 - 2nd post-production (1000 pieces)
By my understanding the post-production was already made by UMR company...
So, it is finally time to focus on the "new" UMF Ruhla NVA Kampfschwimmer watch with the label 1932-M, which has a GTM compication. I have to point out that the same company has in their offer also "more accurate" NVA Kampfschwimmer models with the label 1928-M. Stated models are a bit smaller and cheaper than mine GMT version and they are available in orange, black and blue dial colors. Just for the taste I give you a picture of a black model. So the fact, that I have a 1932-M and not a more correct 1928-M was based on my personal decision, that I didn't seek for the best reissue of the original Kampfschwimmer as I personally had no real connection to the stated watch. I picked the watch which was more attractive (due to the green index marks and hands) to me and which was more unusual. And believe me, the 1932-M version with its 50mm of diameter (including all protection edges arround the bezel) and the total weight (including the bracelet) of more than 200g (depends on the links you need on the bracelet) is unusual and an eyecatcher!
Since I already started describing basic technical data, let me simply wrap up all of them. Almost all of them are also engraved at the backplate of the watch (BTW.: The backplate also confirms that UMF Ruhla is also a part of the PointTec group, as it is written UMF Ruhla PointTec):
• Diameter measured with crown: 50 mm; Diameter of the bezel: 46mm
• Height: 14mm (minimally curved glass)
• Dimensions: lug to lug: 51 mm
• Glass: sapphire watch glass
• Case back: steel with laser engraving, engraving of the limited edition number on the edge of the back
• Bracelet: stainless steel with folding clasp, decorated with UMF-Ruhla symbol
• Lug width 24mm
• Bezel: ceramic, 120 clicks
• Caliber: NH34 with date and GMT function (second time zone)
• Water resistance: 200m / 20bar
• Luminescent material: Superluminova green / night vision blue / green
• Limited to 499 pieces.
I admit that I had some doubts about choosing a watch with a GMT complication. The Seiko NH34 movement is already well known to me, I have also written two reviews of watches using this movement, so I know that the movement is not known for its accuracy. Additionally, GMT is one of those complications that I personally almost never need, and the GMT hand often ends up being just a distracting element, sometimes even leading to misreading in reading the time. However, in this watch, the GMT complication is very well concealed and unobtrusive. It seems that the watch designers were aware that a GMT function is rarely useful for most users. They integrated it as a small subdial with a small hand, making it barely noticeable in everyday use, yet still readable when needed (with a bit of effort). Of course, this solution was only possible because of the large size of the watch and its dial—on a smaller dial, such a discreet GMT dial wouldn’t have been feasible. After careful consideration, I decided that the GMT feature wasn’t a dealbreaker.
What really attracted me to this watch was its overall appearance—green hands and indices on a black background—and especially the large UMF Ruhla logo, designed just as I remember it from my youth. But what ultimately convinced me was its robustness and size. I understand that these factors might turn away most buyers, but personally, I love watches like this.
I also appreciate that the bracelet matches the size and solid build of the case—it’s thick and sturdy, as it should be. Naturally, this adds to the overall weight, but a thinner bracelet wouldn’t suit this watch. Poljot24.de, where I bought the watch, a s a bonus included a free Rios heavy-duty rubber strap. Even though I generally prefer rubber straps, in this case, I tried it on but quickly realized that this watch needs the counterbalance to the case which can be only provided by the bracelet. Since the rubber strap isn’t an original part of the watch, I didn’t take any pictures of it. The bracelet has a very good diver's extension, which is useful even for everyday wear, especially if your wrist swells throughout the day. The only negative thing on the bracelet is the UMF Ruhla sign on the clasp as it is simply too big.
Let's move to the most important question: How does it feel to wear such a watch?
Obviously, this isn’t the kind of watch you can wear unnoticed or forget that it is on your wrist. It’s heavy—you can see in the pictures that it’s so heavy that it tilts downward when I turn my wrist. However, the size of the watch is not as much of an issue as you might expect based on its dimensions. The reason is its relatively short lug-to-lug of just 51mm. While the watch covers a large portion of my wrist, it doesn’t extend over it (at least on my wrist size).
The lume is excellent, and the bezel is very well-made. The crown is signed and screwed-in. Overall, aside from the movement’s accuracy, which is within expected tolerances for everyday wear, the watch exceeded my expectations in build quality.
The box is not a spectacular one, it serves it's purpose and that is it. Instruction manual is generic for all NH35 movement watches, but not for NH34, so GMT complication is not explained in the manual.
The watch is priced at €399 at Poljot24.de, which also includes the extra rubber strap. The lowest price I found online was €360, which is very competitive compared to other watches with this movement.
If you’re looking for a high-quality, heavy-duty diver watch that could double also as a diving weight 😊, this is an excellent choice.
P.S.: UMF Ruhla has also announced the release of a new watch in 2025, which I absolutely must have—a reissue of their jumping-hour watch. From what I’ve seen, a red version will also be available. I actually owned the original version of this watch, but unfortunately, it was extremely sensitive to shocks and constantly malfunctioned. My watchmaker kept telling me that the movement had no jewels and wasn’t worth repairing. In the end, I got rid of it, but I never forgot about it. That’s why I’m excited about this reissue, and I’ll definitely share my thoughts on it once I get one.
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